Originally Published in Good Housekeeping
By Cameron Jenkins
With the popularity of glass skin and the clean girl aesthetic, the pressure to fade stubborn dark spots can feel especially daunting. If you’re an acne-prone girlie like me, you get it. Not only am I on a mission to clear acne, but the dark spots and hyperpigmentation those blemishes leave behind are just as tough to fade.
But just because dark spots are notorious for lingering on our skin longer than we’d like, that doesn’t mean that they’re impossible to get rid of. I asked dermatologists to share the best tips to make dark spots disappear and the mistakes we may be making that keep them from fading quickly.
What causes dark spots?
Before we figure out how to fade dark spots completely, it’s important to identify what’s causing them in the first place. According to Michael Tassavor, M.D., M.S., board-certified dermatologist and attending physician at Medical Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery in New York City, that can be a few things. “Dark spots happen when your skin’s pigment cells go into overdrive and produce too much melanin,” he says. “Dermatologists see a few main types: sunspots from years of accumulated UV damage, melasma from hormones, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which is the mark a pimple or scratch leaves behind after it heals.”
A main factor that can contribute to those dark spots lingering is the sun. “Sun exposure can make these spots darker and cause them to persist longer...while certain medications and medical conditions can occasionally contribute as well,” says Sejal K. Shah, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in private practice in Manhattan.
Why aren’t your dark spots fading?
Dealing with dark spots that never seem to lighten is a problem that derms say can have multiple causes. “Unfortunately, when it comes to fading dark spots, the realistic expectation is measured in months rather than days,” Dr. Shah says. “While some people may notice early improvement within a few weeks, meaningful fading typically takes consistent treatment and patience.”
Beyond treating dark spots being a waiting game, both Dr. Shah and Dr. Tassavor say that you may be taking actions that actually make the dark spots worse.
“The two biggest mistakes are treating pigmentation too aggressively and skipping sunscreen,” Dr. Shah says. This can look like using harsh products, aggressive procedures like peels or lasers, or multiple actives, which may trigger inflammation and result in additional pigment, she notes. “Lastly, ultraviolet exposure can also stimulate pigment production and darken existing spots, essentially working against your treatment efforts,” she adds.
While sunscreen is always a must, Dr. Tassavor says when it comes to treating melasma, the type you use matters. “The number one mistake is treating dark spots without protecting against sun—you’re essentially filling a bucket with a hole in it,” he says. “The second is assuming any sunscreen is enough. Clear sunscreens don’t block visible light, which is a major driver of melasma, so I tell patients to look for a tinted SPF 50 with iron oxides.”
How can you prevent dark spots?
Once again, your best defense against dark spots is proper sun protection. “Use broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher every day and reapply when you’re outdoors for extended periods,” says Morgana Colombo, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Vidaderma. “Hats, shade, and other physical sun protection are also extremely helpful.”
In addition to protecting your skin with sunscreen, Dr. Colombo says it’s important to manage underlying skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis, being sure to pay attention to how your skin appears daily. “If a dark spot is new, changing in size, shape, or color, bleeding, or simply looks different from your other spots, don’t assume it’s cosmetic pigmentation and try to lighten it at home,” she advises. “Please come see a board-certified dermatologist to make sure the spot is not skin cancer.”
Dark spots can be tackled with antioxidants like topical vitamin C, which adds a second line of defense against light-triggered pigment. “Then treat inflammation early—get acne and eczema under control and resist picking, because every popped pimple is a potential dark spot,” Dr. Tassavor says. “If you've just had a procedure or an injury, be meticulous about covering and protecting that area for at least a few weeks while it heals.”
Dark spot fading routine
Now that we know consistency, patience, and sunscreen are key to seeing your dark spots fade, here’s what a proper skincare routine to help you achieve even-toned skin can look like:
Morning:
- Wash your face: “Start with a gentle cleanser, or simply rinse with water if your skin doesn’t need cleansing,” Dr. Shah says.
- Use a pigment-targeting treatment: According to Dr. Shah, for this step, you can use ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, or azelaic acid.
- Moisturize: Select a moisturizer of your choice for this step.
- Apply sunscreen: A sunscreen with SPF of at least 30 should be used daily, Dr. Shah notes. “If pigmentation is a major concern, a tinted sunscreen containing iron oxides is particularly worth considering,” she adds.
Night:
- Cleanse: Dr. Shah suggests using a gentle cleanser in your night routine as well.
- Use a retinoid: Retinoids can be introduced gradually. “For example, [use the ingredient] two to three nights per week rather than every night from the start,” Dr. Shah says.
- Moisturize: “Finish with moisturizer to help support the skin barrier,” she says.
Note that this routine is not one-size-fits-all, but Dr. Shah says that when it comes to treating skin pigment, this is a good place to start. “If your skin tolerates this routine well, you can gradually introduce another pigment-targeting ingredient or occasional gentle exfoliation,” she says. “There’s no need to use every active ingredient at once; in fact, doing so may increase the risk of irritation and inflammation.”
More stubborn pigmentation may require prescription treatments provided by a dermatologist. “Treatment should be individualized, since certain procedures can potentially worsen post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), particularly when performed too aggressively,” Dr. Shah says.
